I like to keep it simple, after all, the front is connected to the back. You can stop placing it up front. Then mount the rest of the lead like I stated above to get your front weight at the desired percentage. Feel free to PM with any more questions. I’m finally getting someplace!
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OK, I need to correct my first post. If you can get everything to scale out with those percentages you should have a good base to tune from. Thanks Brett, I appreciate that. That’s all that matters to me!
Feel free to PM with any more questions.
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Being a little bit scientific about it will help in the end even if it takes a lot of time up front. Set your camber at Join Date Oct Location iowa Posts 6, I seem to find that unless you are on really hard tires like vega reds or something similar, the limit on the nose weight is Narrow the front for push, widen the front for loose.
We have had weight on the floor pan under the steering shaft in front of gas tank as well as bolted to the floor pan just in front of the crossbar under the front of the seat. I don’t like mounting weights on the frame rail tabs or clyote adding frame rail weight clamps.
Originally Posted by 01ron. Bob’s 4 Cycle List of Sponsors.
Put the weight lower. I realize I should never have to go to full lock while racing, but still it seems to me that the steering shouldn’t even be capable of doing this if it’s set up right.
I don’t mean to sound argumentative about it, but again that doesn’t seem right to me. I had someone from Coyote tell me just this weekend that I should take the weight out of the bottom and put it on the seat.
Struggling with Coyote XP!
As long as you are with in 5 lbs difference in weight between the LF and the RF while keeping the percentages as close to 42F 50L 50X as possible the kart should drive a lot better. If you see the nose weight is already where it needs to be, then keep stacking the weight on the seat if you can.
I’m having a hard time convincing myself that’s the way it should work. There’s been a lot of advancements since then!
2018 Coyote XP Kart Chassis
Keep splitting the weight high and low on the seat as well. Originally Posted by Brettm If I put the tie rods in the front holes on the spindles it doesn’t do this when turning, and it seems to be able to turn a tighter corner with the same amount of steering input. I understand ackerman and how it works, but this seems like an extreme example. After going to the track yesterday it is working way better than it was. I can keep up with the field with no problem.
I still need a little more chassis tweaking to suit my style, but at least I’m in the window now. I’ve still got a lot to learn and I welcome all opinions. Results 1 to 16 of The last kart I drove competitively was a Emmick Elite, roughly 30 years ago.
Make sure your stagger is even left to right. Another thing to play with; tread widths front and rear.